Gary M Green

4. Glue, don’t nail, track down.

Nailing track down can create dips and rises. Use lots of weights on top of long, flat boards to make sure that track is as flat and level as possible while the adhesive is drying. If your module top is foam, be careful not to push overly hard in any one area to avoid "denting" the foam and creating a low spot in the track.

5. Apply adhesive for track so that the track centerline is visible.

Consider "dry fitting" track before beginning permanent installation. Doing this makes it easy to determine where you don't want adhesive. It also provides an opportunity to make sure that all rail joints are either tight or slightly open to allow for expansion. When doing this, I do solder short sections or assemblies so that permanent installation is easier. As an example, this is the "dry fit" layout of the track for Mojave Yard. I marked the location of all rail joints (the locations with missing ties), turnout throwbars and the outer edge of the ties so that I could mask off those locations during application of adhesive.

What I prefer to do is to apply two parallel lines of adhesive on each side of the centerline. Then I spread the adhesive with the fine-toothed adhesive spreader described in item 2 in the roadbed section above. I then smooth the adhesive with a spatula. Doing all this will keep the centerline visible and control the amount of adhesive applied before the track is laid.

I use blue masking tape to control the spread of the adhesive and to mask off locations where I don’t want adhesive (the location of throwbars, frogs, rail joiners, etc.). I remove the tape before laying down the track.

6. Use track templates to keep straight track straight and curved track gracefully curved.

Straight track should be just that—straight—and curves should be smooth and even. Track templates for straight track are available that are up to 18” long. Curved track templates are available in a variety of radii and can be fabricated for larger curves. Mark the centerline of the track on the track templates and slide them back and forth along the track, making sure that the centerline is where it should be and that the “shape” of the track is smooth and constant. Easements will cause a bit of a problem here, but adherence to the centerline will provide the necessary solution. You will need to know where the constant radius curve and straight track begin and end in order to locate the ends of the easement properly.

Example: Installation of a bridge on a module was done without a track curve template. The track crossing the bridge has a very large radius and the track on either side of the bridge has a radius that is less than the Free-mo minimum standard. As a result, some equipment satisfying the Free-mo standard will not operate on this track.

7. Avoid kinks where track joiners are installed.

One of the most obvious flaws in trackwork is a kink where track joiners are installed. Make rail joints and joiners very hard to locate by making certain that there are no kinks in either straight or curved trackwork.

Example: Take a look at the track kink in the ad for Walthers code 83 track in the Walthers catalog of a few years ago. It also looks like there’s a vertical kink as well.

Also notice the mismatch of rail size and railheads at the kink. Make sure that the rail ends at each rail joiner line up so that wheel flanges won’t catch on a rail end and derail. A transition from code 83 to code 70 rail is provided as one of the Walters track products.

A location that is particularly susceptible to unintended kinks is at any intra-module joints where the rail ends are run to the end of adjoining module segments rather than using joiner rails. It's very easy to introduce a kink if the track doesn't approach the end of each segment exactly perpendicular to the ends on both sides of the joint. This is an especially difficult problem if the track on both sides of the joint form a continuous curve. The best way to avoid this problem is to lay the track across the joint and then cut the rails exactly at the joint.

8. Consider using “loose rail” joints at joints between segments of a multi-segment module.

Stub-end track is being more commonly used at intra-module joints of multi-segment modules. are also locations where it can be difficult to make sure that track run to the end of the segments will line up properly.

To avoid these problems, consider using “loose rail” joints when bridge rails aren’t used. With this approach, rails are run to the edge of the module segments but secured about ¾” back from the edge. The ¾” length at the edge of the module is left free to wiggle back and forth just a little on top of ties of the type used under rail joiners and bridge rails. After the module segments are aligned at the joint, a rail joiner left on one of the loose rails is slid across the joint, engaging the rails on both sides of the joint. This has proven to be a great way to assure that rails are lined up properly across the joint. At tear down, the joiner is slid back onto one of the loose rails.

Here's a photo of a loose rail joint. In the photo, one rail joiner is slid across the joint and one is not. The rail must be secured at the end of the loose rail. In this case, the rail is secured with escutcheon pins (plywood subroad bed required) whose heads have been reshaped. Others use PCB tie plates. In any case, the ties under the loose rails must provide room for the sliding rail joiners. In this case, stripwood ties thinner than the flex rail tie strip were used (notice the scarring from slips when sliding the rail joiner. We hadn't touched it up yet).

9. Avoid rises where track joiners are installed.

Allow for the additional thickness of track joiners under the rail. Consider removing all ties under the joiners and sliding thinner ties into the open area under the rails after the track is installed. Notched ties as described by Gregg Fuhriman in item 17 (below) are a good solution. I use stripwood that is the proper width and thick enough to just slide under the joiners without displacing the rail.

10. Decide whether rail joints will be soldered or not.

This is a very controversial issue. Some advocate no soldering at all in order to provide for expansion and contraction with heat and cold. Others argue that soldering rail joints on curves is necessary to avoid kinks but advocate leaving unsoldered expansion joints on straight track. Whatever you decide, joints intended to provide for expansion and contraction must include a small gap if they are to be helpful at all.

11. Install feeder wires to each separate piece of rail.

This means feeder wires to switch point rails and all other short segments of rail. The result is a lot of feeders but no electrical dead spots that might cause short wheel base locomotives or locomotives with split power pick-up (trackmobiles or steam locomotives) to stutter when passing through your trackwork. I use #22 solid copper wire bent into a short L-shape and “tipped over” to nestle into the outside web of the rail. When soldered carefully and painted, the feeders are hard to spot. Keep the length of #22 feeders short and patch into heavier wire if the feeder much longer than about 6” long.

As I mentioned before, there’s good advice in Easy Model Railroad Wiring (2^nd Edition) by Andy Sperandeo.

12. Under no circumstances, feed turnout power through the switch point rails.

This is just plain bad practice, is unreliable, and should be avoided absolutely.

13. Fill all electrical gaps with plastic.

Gray Plastruct can be glued into gaps and trimmed to the profile of the rail. The Plastruct is relatively hard to see because its color is close to the color of nickel silver rail. Doing this will make certain that gaps don’t close sometime in the future.

14. Consider filling frogs with plumbers putty.

This isn’t necessary, but it does provide for smoother passage of rolling stock with .088” wheel sets. Fill the frog flangeways with plumbers epoxy putty, and then open up the flangeways with a Mark IV NMRA gauge while the putty is still workable. After painting the rail, the result looks good and performs well. Note: Equipment with oversize flanges will not work with this modification.

15. Verify that track joints are smooth and that track through turnouts is flat and level.

While some would claim it’s a bad idea, after installation I file the rail throughout the length of turnouts with a wide but very fine flat file. I find that doing so eliminates uneven rail ends and joints and levels the rail through turnouts where the frog or other rail segments might sit too high relative to the other segments.

16. Remove the plastic that fills the gaps on some prefabricated turnouts and crossings.

The plastic often stands higher than the rails and extends into the flangeways. This is especially true with Walthers turnouts and crossings. Careful cutting and filing will remove the plastic and result in much smoother operation.

17. Use heavy wire for Tortoise switch machines.

The wire provided with Tortoise switch machines is too light for reliable operation. While you can get away with a smaller diameter, I use 0.048” piano wire. The result is very tight fitting switch point rails and very positive operation. You’ll have to open up the holes for the wire on the Tortoise. I don’t worry about applying too much pressure to turnout throwbars since I always replace them with PCB throwbars.

18. Avoid dips and rises when securing rail at module ends.

It’s easy to cause a dip or rise when securing rail at module ends. If PCB tie plates are used, make certain that the tie plate is shimmed so the tie height on the PCB matches the adjoining track exactly. Whatever method is used, be certain that the rail is not pulled down or raised up by the attachment method at rail ends.

19. Leave room for fitter rail joiners and fitter rails.

Provide thinner ties to allow for the extra thickness of both metal and plastic (insulating) fitter rail joiners. Make the area of thinner ties long enough for the joiners to slide onto and off of the fixed rail and bridge rail ends at the module ends. Remove the “tie plate” bits on PCB tie plates and if needed carve out extra room for fitter rails on the ties that will be under the fitter rails at the end of the module. This will insure that the fitter rails will be free to adjust to small errors in alignment during setups. As I mentioned above, I use stripwood filler ties. After painting, they’re hard to spot. You can see what they look like at http://www.pbase.com/bschrempp/image/43462875. In this photo, you’ll also see that I secure my rail ends with shaped escutcheon pins soldered to the rails—an approach that’s possible only with plywood subroadbed.

Gregg Fuhriman makes the following suggestions:

You must notch the first couple of ties under the rail ends to clear the fitter rail joiners and prevent them from lifting the rail ends. The best way to solve this is to use PCB tie plates designed for use on Free-mo modules. They are designed with notches to clear the fitter rail joiners, and provide a sturdy method of rail-end attachment. When not using PCB tie plates, one of the following approaches is suggested:

a) (recommended) Before installing track, remove the ties at the module end all the way back to where the fitter rail joiners will be. After the track is installed and rail ends have been trimmed to the 1" setback, glue in "filler" ties that have been notched where the rails would normally go. These filler ties extend from the module end all the way back under the rail ends. Usually two notched ties under the rail ends are needed to leave enough clearance for the fitter rail joiners. I set up my Dremel tool on the workbench and "dado'ed" a bunch of ties to make the notches. This is much easier than carving the notches by hand with a hobby knife.

b) (not recommended, but might be your only choice if your track is already down) Install the track including ties all the way to the module endplate. Cut back the rails the required 1" and remove. Use a hobby knife to carefully notch ties (in place) to clear fitter rails and joiners. This involves digging into the ties under the rail ends with the knife point. This is a challenging task as it's very easy to accidentally tear up the rails, etc.

20. Make sure that roadbed, ties, tie plates and any other trackwork structure is absolutely flush with the end plate.

Any subroadbed, roadbed or track that projects beyond the end plate will prevent a tight connection to the next module with and may damage trackwork on both modules.

21. Check ALL trackwork with an NMRA Mark IV track gauge.

It’s surprising to discover how often this is overlooked. Check for gauge, electrical and mechanical switch point rail clearances, guardrail clearances, flangeway depths and widths, and clearance of details installed on the track (e.g., railbars). Correct any problems that you find. While you’re at it, check the gauge of all your locomotive and rolling stock wheelsets as well as coupler heights. It’s surprising to find out how many wheelsets are out of gauge.

22. Make sure that nothing between or next to the rails is as high as or higher than the tops of the rail.

Road crossings, paved areas and other scenic elements can prevent rail cleaning, cause derailments, and snag low hanging details and coupler levers if they are higher than the rail tops between or next to the track.

Example: A dragging equipment detector that was higher than the rail tops was installed between the rails. A low hanging coupler lever snagged on the detector and stopped the progress of a passenger train.

Example: Roadway material higher than the rail top was installed right next to the rail head next to the track. The wheels of passing trains were lifted to the level of the roadway and derailments and power loss resulted.

23. Keep turnout switch point rails, flangeways, and all moving turnout parts free of ballast and other scenic material.

This takes time and isn’t easy! Keep the full length of the switch point rails and the throw rod free of anything that will interfere with the free operation of the turnout. The switch rails on Walthers turnouts are especially long while Fast Tracks turnouts flex the switch rails without a hinge.

Example: The long switch point rails of a Walthers turnout embedded in pavement were restricted from moving from one position to the other across their full length. The result was that a short portion of the switch rails had to bend to accommodate the change in position of the turnout. Finally, the attachment of the switch rails to the throw bar failed.

24. Remember to clean paint and glue off of railheads.

While it’s obvious, it’s surprising how often this simple chore is forgotten. Do it completely. Make the railheads shine.

25. Clean track and wheels regularly.

Clean track and wheels mean reliable operation. Blinking headlights are a dead giveaway that one or the other or both need immediate attention. How best to do this is a very controversial topic. In spite of strong critics against them, I don’t mind using abrasive blocks. I prefer the less abrasive versions and regularly remove the dirty surface with and soap and water followed with a file if needed. I also wipe my track with an alcohol dampened cloth from time-to-time.

Several important words of warning when it comes to track cleaning:

Don’t clean your track using materials like Goo Gone, oils or other chemicals that will be transferred to other modules without the other module owners’ knowledge and permission.

Don’t clean the track on someone else’s module without their knowledge and permission. They may have detailed their trackwork in a way that you might not notice (painted guard rails on turnouts, etc.).

When cleaning, WATCH OUT FOR TRACKSIDE DETAILS. It’s all to easy to break scenic details that took a lot of time to create and install.